BfR on chemicals in textiles: REACH limits for 33 CMR substances, 75 mg/kg for formaldehyde, 0.1% by weight for nine phthalates — and first results of studies on the release of azo dyes from polyester and cotton
On 6 October 2026 the German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR) published questions and answers on chemicals in clothing and other textiles — from dyes and production auxiliaries to finishing agents that make fabrics, for example, water-repellent or crease-resistant. BfR summarises the rules in force and explains what the risk depends on: whether a substance is released from the fabric and whether it penetrates through the skin or by inhalation.
- According to BfR, limits have been set under REACH for 33 substances used in textiles that can alter genetic material, cause cancer or impair reproduction. For formaldehyde in clothing a limit of 75 mg/kg has applied since November 2020, and in jackets, coats and upholstery since November 2023 — Regulation (EU) 2018/1513 allowed 300 mg/kg in them during a transitional period. Since August 2026 a limit of 0.08 mg/m³ in chamber testing has also applied to formaldehyde emissions from products, including textiles.
- For nine phthalates classified as toxic for reproduction (DEHP, DBP, BBP, DIBP, DMEP, DIPP, DnPP, DnHP and 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C6-8-branched alkyl esters, C7-rich) the limit in textiles is 0.1% by weight — according to BfR effectively a ban, as plasticising a plastic usually requires 20–40%. Phthalates can occur in PVC or plastisol prints. REACH restricts nonylphenol and its ethoxylates, among others, in textile and leather processing and in textile articles where they can reach waters.
- Azo dyes: the azo bond can be cleaved by, among others, bacteria on the skin, releasing primary aromatic amines, some of which are mutagenic or carcinogenic — which is why several hundred azo dyes have effectively been banned in textiles for decades. First results of a BfR research project on the release of dyes from textiles: hardly any dye is released from polyester, and in most samples only a very small amount from cotton fabrics, but individual samples with a high cotton content showed stronger release.
- Antimony from polyester production (antimony trioxide) remains in clothing in small amounts; according to BfR model calculations, even under cautious assumptions, uptake from textiles reaches about 1% of the daily dose considered safe by the WHO. Flame retardants can account for up to 20% of the weight of a garment; the biocides most often used are silver and silver compounds, quaternary ammonium compounds, isothiazolinones and pyrethroids. Only the fibre composition is mandatory on the label — the chemicals used do not have to be declared.